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Notes on "Parade's End" & Nostalgic Performances

The English, in their stubbornly melancholy way, have a knack for living and re-living traditions of their oft-contemplated and fictionalized past, brooding about ends of eras and mild-mannered gentlemen finding themselves disoriented as the world disintegrates and falls away before they are ready to face what rises up to replace it.

Ford Madox Ford was a master of that stubborn melancholy, penning several novels meditating upon themes of honor, "families of position," the expanding reach of women and the onslaught of modernity, years before Waugh's better-known work Brideshead Revisited even began to take form

Waugh's male figures -- paralyzed with Hamletian doubt and anxiety over what will come of the aristocracy, their behaviors, and their way of life -- find their prototypes in Ford's leading gentlemen, Edward Ashburnham of The Good Soldier and Christopher Tietjens of the Parade's End tetralogy. 

For Waugh, what constitutes a Gentleman has a lot to do with aesthetics, affiliations, and affectation: wearing the right color jacket, speaking in the right accent, belonging to the right Oxford college, collecting the right watercolors, and reading the right poetry. In the world of Ford's tragic, inwardly-turned, and reflective protagonists, the concept of a Gentleman is purer, and strikes at the core of what is perhaps a profounder anxiety: the Gentleman fights to behave with restraint and reticence -- simply because it is the thing to do, nothing more. No trappings, no fanfare. Ford's nostalgic dream is that of a world in which decorum is instinctively and elegantly observed, a world in which there is no need for physical ornaments of honor and class because those virtues were the stuff of one's very bones.   

It is a world that was dead long before Ashburnham begins his affair with Florence, and long before Tietjens joins his story's eponymous end of the "parade"...that is, if that world ever existed at all. Clinging to a code of "mercilessly" forgiving and restrained husbandly behavior that those around him (especially his wife) consider outmoded, Tietjens is constantly reminded that he belongs to en extinct breed. A passionate, romantic "sentimentalist," the "good soldier" Ashburnham patterns himself after novels and poems and yearns for the kind of great love affair only found in old books.

But the crux of the problem of nostalgia -- so powerful and crippling that the 17th century Swiss considered it a medical condition* -- is that its referent is necessarily imaginary, and that those who seek to perform according to nostalgic expectations are necessarily divorced from their referents. Ashburnham is revealed to have been a cheat and a liar all along, fickly pursuing romance after romance and driving his wife to bitterness. And Tietjens, caught in a tug of war between his desire to have an affair with suffragette Valentine and his belief in stoic and decorous restraint, does not naturally possess the hallmarks of Ford's idealized, nostalgic gentleman. He twists, he struggles, and eventually he caves. He is not, in fact, the last of a dying order. The order was extinguished before his time.

There is something near-pathological about the maddening emotional gymnastics that Ford's and Waugh's men inflict upon themselves. The only tangible and actionable hope, then, lies in the women, who in both Parade's End and Brideshead Revisited are remarkable, bright, complex, and defy rigid categorization as heroines or villains. Valentine becomes a married man's mistress, but there is no immorality attached to her decision. She merely follows her heart to a man who is her emotional and intellectual match. Sylvia, Mrs. Tietjens, rattles the bars of her gilded cage and verbally jabs the men around her at any chance she gets, but she possesses genuine admiration for her husband and yearns for real involvement with him -- not the tepid dismissiveness he gives her.

The women in these nostalgic English works also live in the future and act upon it: Valentine, a suffragette, seeks to advance the position of women in England, and Sylvia, keenly aware of the delicate workings of human motivation, pushes and prods the people around her to set her will in action. Where the men stand paralyzed, denying time and struggling with their performances of nostalgic identities, the women run forward and exercise their agentic power. Perhaps Waugh's aristocratic Julia Flyte -- who is passionate, conflicted, and rejects the backwards-gazing Charles Ryder to inherit and repurpose an estate alone -- is a WWII response to Ford's women.  (She is even, like Sylvia Tietjens, an isolated Catholic processing her relationship to her faith.)

Visually stunning and masterfully paced, the 2012 BBC adaptation of Parade's End also brings a striking literalization of identity performance to the screen. The miniseries's characters navigate a kaleidoscope of mirrors not only in the title sequence (reflective golden triangles arranging and rearranging themselves under dancing light) and in key moments punctuating its five episodes. Sylvia contemplates her reflection in a compact mirror that is damaged when Tietjens fails to emote to her liking, and she tosses it out a window for a reaction. Afterwards she continues to use it, despite the cracks running down its center. Valentine -- with a third-person gaze -- imagines watching herself admire her own naked reflection as she awaits a late-night rendezvous with Tietjens. Even Tietjens himself is reflected back at himself: after sustaining an injury in war, he dreams of his own face fragmented in a mess of mirrors, and wakes to ask a nurse, "What is my name?"

The images are fraught with layers of meaning, chief upon which is the assessment and construction of the self via image. What do these figures see in their mirrors? Do the images match their concepts of themselves? What ideal form, if any, do they strive to pattern themselves after? To perform? Why does the maintenance of identity seem to require repeated, third-person observation and assessment? Is the image in the mirror the Self, a reflection of it, a distortion of it, or something else entirely? Is it a Platonic form? When Tietjens fancies himself a traditional, upstanding gentleman of the lost English aristocracy, to what image does he refer? Mirrors are the device through which the production's designers figure the negotiation of and conceptualization of identity. And, like the object of a nostalgic desire or performance, the image in a mirror is virtual and not quite true to reality -- impossible to grasp.

I have spent nearly three years now attempting to knead the meaning out of all this grand, melancholy English nostalgia, beginning with projects on Yeats and Waugh, and like the kaleidoscopic images of Parade's End, like water through fingers and like time slipping away, any meaning that begins to form immediately moves and changes and gets away from me. But that is the great beauty of that nostalgia: it gives and gives and never takes shape, refusing to cohere, co-authoring stories that do the same -- stories with a particular brand of sublime surface tension that ripples on the verge of rupture, never breaking. 

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When "Cute" Bites Back

Theory of Cuteness series, part 1 of several

If you think long and hard about it, "cuteness" starts to get complicated and more than a little disturbing.

What do we find cute? Babies and children, small animals, rounded objects, cartoons, sweetly arranged desserts, and miniatures, among similar things. What these have in common is a certain powerlessness, a kind of infirmity or helpless diminutive quality that highlights a gulf in power between viewers/consumers (agent, acting) and viewed/consumed (object, acted upon). Cuteness is not merely an aesthetic, as we would assume, but the aestheticized awareness and expression of power.

Intriguingly, sometimes "cute" bites back.

Sianne Ngai’s The Cuteness of the Avant-Garde draws attention to a mirroring quality of cuteness: its potential to reflect back upon its audience that which the audience sees in cuteness itself. One example Ngai cites is cuteness’s tendency to “infantilize the language of its infantilizer” (827). In a similar but more chilling vein, cuteness can also contain a “latent threat” (833). This is because, as Ngai continues, “if things can be personified, persons can be made things” (833). The conversion of people (agent, acting) into things (object, acted upon) is frightening in that it dares to posit the following: what if we agents, who derive pleasure from observing the powerlessness of cute objects (“imposed-upon”), are forced to become powerless ourselves? What if we become the thing upon which we impose?

This is terrifyingly but aptly exemplified in a piece by a master of the intersection of cute and grotesque, surrealist artist Mark Ryden:

"The Grinder" (#95), by Mark Ryden, from "The Gay Nineties" collection. Oil on canvas. 2010.

"The Grinder" (#95), by Mark Ryden, from "The Gay Nineties" collection. Oil on canvas. 2010.

In “The Grinder,” we see a cute-grotesque little girl seated at a café-like arrangement on a terrace. She has a classically cute oversized head and eyes, and an outfit that refers back to the early twentieth century. She looks soft, vulnerable and even “tender.” Softness and tenderness, Ngai tells us, are marks of the “malleable,” “usable,” and indeed, vulnerable — and they signal a cutification of food resulting from its “deformation” and “transformation” into an easily chewable form (831).

But the girl in Ryden’s picture is not only tender-looking herself, she and her buddy (a rather eerily out-of-place Abraham Lincoln figure) are tenderizing something else as well: a human heart, rendered hyper-real (complete with muscular striations) in contrast to the cartoonish distortion of the girl. What’s more, they appear to be mashing up that heart for consumption — they are, after all, at a table set with dinnerware. This is not the tenderness or imposed “hurt” of Gertrude Stein’s Tender Buttons; this is the total destruction and implied cannibalization (in a proper, polite environment, no less) of a recognizable organ with deep cultural significance. If they were merely grinding up elbows, the painting would not be quite so powerful.

Typically, large-headed, glassy-eyed girls in retro dresses look like dolls: literally things to be toyed with, things rendered objects under our control (this idea is borrowed from Jacques Lacan and Susan Stewart). Seen here on her lunch with Lincoln, it becomes horrifyingly clear that this girl is instead toying with us. She is a partaker in the consumption of a heart whose incongruously realistic appearance flags us in the audience, not surreal figures like her, as its source. Before, we may have imposed upon the girl a kind of aggression in finding her classically cute. However, with the ground heart before her, that aggression and injury is redirected to the viewer. We are ourselves thingified, so to speak, as passive and helpless objects of her violence. And we are terrified even as we are charmed.

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Keep Calm and Carry On

I'm fascinated by what people carry around as they go about their daily lives. Plain bags, wild bags, expensive bags, modest bags -- they say the eyes are the window to the soul, but one could probably glean just as much about a character from the handbag hanging by their side. 

And what a season autumn is for handbags. It is a season during which anything goes: the dramatic, the whimsical, the glamorous...and none of it too over-the-top or too heavy for the weather. Play a character with your handbag this fall. Be an It-Girl, be a savvy sleuth, be a shrewd executive or a bohemian or a duchess or an artist. Be irreverent, be bold, be true to your style and your whims, and if you're me, be bitterly astounded by some of the price tags separating you from the pieces upon which you over-reflect!

A brief selection of fall-friendly stunners:


Cambridge Satchel Co. large push lock crossbody in burgundy

Nostalgic, charming and made of buttery-looking leather at an affordable price point, this wine-hued Cambridge Satchel Co. creation ranks near the top of my list of dream fall pieces. Maybe it's the rich color, or maybe it's the throwback collegiate design -- but whatever it is, it makes me want to return to campus, curl up with a book and a mug of tea, and wrap myself up in something cable-knit while leaves change color outside.

$150, or "treat yo self"


Givenchy medium 'Antigona' in black goat leather

Interest in the striking, structured Antigona is winding down, and the once-ubiquitous social media images of it are starting to trickle away as bloggers (and the Kardashians) move onto the next trendy bag. And I'm glad of it, because now the Antigona can stand alone rather than as a celebrity-driven fad, and its simplicity and proportions should give it staying power even as its it-factor drops. 

$2,345, or "sleep on a friend's couch for 2 months"


Saint Laurent 'High School' leather shoulder bag

I am rendered an incoherent daydreaming mess by all things nostalgic, so this boxy, whimsical Saint Laurent sends me into Nancy Drew mysteries, to English libraries, through museum archives, and onto long-distance passenger trains to Vienna. But no one could mistake this for a drab men's briefcase -- not in that shade of red and not with those accordioned sides reminiscent of the Sac de Jour.

$1,890, or "do I want a French bag or do I want airfare to France instead"


Proenza Schouler tiny 'PS1' in smoke

A perennial favorite of mine, the PS1 has enjoyed remarkable longevity and relevance since its 2008 debut. Relaxed and structured at once, its attractiveness lies in its studied nonchalance -- its ability to punch up an outfit without calling attention to itself. It feels casual, lived-in, and utterly comfortable ("Oh, this old thing?"), and calls to mind behind-the-scenes images of gangly fashion models with hair half-undone, decked out in leather as they linger at the backstage entrance to their next runway show. Bonus: the dyed leather is designed to age with wear, so each piece evolves uniquely with its owner.

$1,475, or "what do you mean my entire bonus is gone"


Céline small tricolor 'Trapeze'

The alien-faced Céline luggage tote's moment has come and gone, but that’s just as well, because its similarly winged "trapeze" cousin now comes in fall neutrals and is better suited to the minimalist mood of 2015, with its plain flap and squared hardware. It's starting to be just as visible on the arms of fashion enthusiasts as the luggage tote was a few years ago, but doesn't feel so cloying just yet...and it is so elegant and inoffensive that I'm not sure it ever will.

$2,800, or "oh come ON, I know you gave this to a blogger for free"


Saint Laurent small 'Sac de Jour'

"Bag of the day," it is modestly called, as if its makers wanted to make a tongue-in-cheek joke about the transience of It-Bag trends. The Sac de Jour, however, pulls together so many classic elements (pleating, structure, top handle, solid coloring) that it’s tough to picture it reaching its demise anytime soon. Even if traditional, it is anything but boring. Sharp edges and clean lines lend it a sexy, high-powered charisma and confidence: "I know what the fuck I'm doing."

$2,750, or "I would consider it if it doubled as shelter"


Dior 'Diorama' bag

Typically Dior's aesthetic is a little too princess-in-Paris for me. It is consistent and it works -- the quilting and beading and sweet pastels -- but it isn't for me. In the Diorama, however, the label strikes an uncharacteristically modern and architectural balance of beautiful (that leather! that closure! those proportions!) and bare (those lines! those chains! that icy hue!). This piece in particular is angular, mathematical, cold and glassy. Fans of minimalist styling may find themselves newly drawn to Dior this fall.

about $3,000, or "call the bank and sheepishly tell them no, your card was not stolen"


Fendi 'Trois Jours' in gray multi

There's beauty in the unexpected and incongruous. The delicate balance and extreme rigidity of the Trois Jours suggests the carrier is a person in absolute control, all the way down to the handbag dangling from one elbow. This Fendi creation is a beauty in all the colors currently produced, but particularly in this one, which features a shock of color along each of the bag's sharply defined edges.

$3,250, or "it'd better be able to time-travel too"


Chanel embroidered glass and pearl 'Boy' bag

A successfully reworked classic is a feat of research, vision, and respect for what came before. Chanel's toughened, radically youthful 'Boy' line features all three, and in this fall's glass and pearl incarnation, doubly or triply so. Here we see the glitz and glamour of retro Chanel combined with the attitude of metal tones and heavy hardware -- a welcome, well-executed juxtaposition. 

price available only upon request, or "are you sure you won't accept my first-born child instead"


Chloé medium 'Faye' bag

Call it my bias speaking since I own the small version of the Faye, but its larger relative tickles my fancy in exactly the same way. I am drawn to unusual designs like a moth to the flame, so when Chloé introduced this laid-back but polished, fall-friendly, 1970s equestrian-inspired piece, I was enchanted. To the casual viewer, the Faye is odd -- a conversation starter, a puzzlement, an inexplicable structure -- and that is precisely what I adore about it. It invites double-takes and yields no readily available answers as to why it does. I do not think the Faye is "pretty" or even generally appealing in a conventional sense…but it is insouciant, weird, and distinctive, and all the better for it.

$1,950, or "is that the sound of me becoming desensitized to 4-figured price tags?"

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