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The Edge of the Earth [2/2]

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The Edge of the Earth [2/2]

After leaving the coast, Nathan & I headed east along the winding Route 101 -- easily the most beautiful highway I have traveled -- to the inland forests and lakes of the Olympic Peninsula.

RAINFORESTS

The Hoh Rainforest is a sprawling thing, dense and atmospheric and, on brighter and warmer afternoons, suffused with an otherworldly golden light. You half expect to become surrounded by fairies and nymphs while you crush brittle fallen leaves underfoot. Northeast of the Hoh region are the dewy, deep and eerie Sol Duc (or Soleduck) forests, chilly and silent and full to the brim with mist. Nestled in its canyon depths are the Sol Duc Falls, which rush over mossy rocks shimmering in the dampness. Sol Duc leaves you breathless. It is a pocket out of time.  

LAKE CRESCENT & ENVIRONS

I thought Lake Quinaut was vast and mirror-like until we arrived at Lake Crescent on a cloudy day. The glacial lake emerges suddenly from between overlapping mountains and draws the eye forward like an arrow to the horizon. As time ticked by, fog rolled down nearby Storm King and blanketed the towering sentinel firs around us in gray. On a clear day, the waters are so clear you can see dropped coins and sunken boat tethers at the bottom. On this drizzly morning, all we saw were shifting pinpricks of rain breaking the tension of the lake.  

HURRICANE RIDGE

And lastly, the mountains called. We took the steep and nerve-wracking road up to the lookout on Hurricane Ridge, made a little easier by the low center of gravity and the stability of our rental Mustang. There was little snow covering the peaks this time, as it was a drier, warmer October, so we were greeted by an unobstructed view of the ridge's gently gradated blue peaks rolling like waves into the distance.  

As tough as it is to tear oneself away from a place like the Olympic Peninsula, a reluctant departure is inevitable for the itinerant traveler. And when it happens, the only consolation is the knowledge that the visitor has ideally perhaps developed a humbled awareness of their smallness in the universe. These forests are ancient. The lakes are prehistoric. Older still are the mountains that once cradled glaciers that came to fill their deep valleys. Older are the rocks that punctuate miles of wild coast, and even older are the pinpoints of brightness that spin above the land in the night, a dome of diffuse starlight. But for me this is enough. No grand changes, no earth-shaking discoveries necessary. Maybe to know such extraordinary and liberating insignificance before the foundations of the Earth is never to leave the great Northwest.

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The Edge of the Earth [1/2]

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The Edge of the Earth [1/2]

Writing about people and experiences that are near and dear to my heart is extraordinarily difficult for me. It comes down to an anxiety about falling short -- about not possessing language sharp and poetic enough to do my subject justice. As Henry James wrote in the novel Roderick Hudson:

"...the faculty of expression is wanting, but the need for expression remains, and I spend my days groping for the latch of a closed door."

The Pacific Northwest is all of these for me: a loved one, a precious experience, an expression I yearn to create, and both the latch and the closed door itself. Upon my first visit to the Northwest in 2011, I thought the region would be my "latch" -- a gorgeous wonderland-as-muse that would lead me to new heights of literary vision. It didn't happen.

I returned in 2013 and again this past fall, and the great Northwest becomes more opaque to me each time. With repeated sadness I've come to regard the Olympic Peninsula as something too large for me, too sublime. I'm regrettably unable to write the traditional traveler's reflection of problem-journey-growth-resolution on my trip, as there is no logic -- no plot arc, no meaning -- to how the Northwest swallows you up in its briskness, its mistiness, its ruggedness…and leaves you humbled and sad and aching at once. 

QUINAULT

We began our trip with Quinault, a glassy lake cradled by forested mountains. Back in 2011 my family passed through the area, found it striking, and regretted not leaving enough time in our schedule to idle on its pebbly shores. With this in mind, my boyfriend & I stayed at the Rain Forest Resort Village just down the road from the more famous Quinault Lodge (where Roosevelt once dined), enjoyed a lake view from our enormous window, and had breakfast omelets in the main lodge's restaurant on chilly mornings. In the evenings we took our time dining on fresh Pacific salmon and watching the sun set Lake Quinault ablaze.

KALALOCH & RUBY

The beaches of the Washington Coast are among the dearest places on Earth to me, and among them, Ruby Beach is king. Its boulders, stacks and scattered driftwood have a sense of balance and depth of which I imagine John Ruskin would be especially appreciative. South of Ruby are a series of expansive, bleached-white beaches that never fail to tickle my negative space fancy.

LA PUSH & CAPE FLATTERY

On the 4th and 5th days of our trip, we headed north of Ruby to the Quileute reservation of La Push, where we climbed its striking, bony pile of driftwood and squinted against the glare of the sun off of James Island. Even farther north we encountered winding mountain-meets-coastline roads leading to Neah Bay (of the Makah people) and then to Cape Flattery, the most northwesterly point of the contiguous United States. Cape Flattery is otherworldly -- it's like something out of Middle Earth, with its feathery, wind-bent trees and mossy islands of all sizes rising from turquoise waters.

TBC in "The Edge of the Earth" part 2

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Meet the Chloé "Faye"

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Meet the Chloé "Faye"

The "Faye," an Italian-made, flap-closure shoulder bag by French design house Chloé, gained a passionate following in the fashion world in 2015 with surprising staying power. Backordered almost everywhere, it isn't expected to ship from most retailers until this March or April. (In fact, when I ordered one last July, I was told it would likely be the last one shipped from Nordstrom until that October.) 

Typically, objects I gravitate toward are not conventional -- a Pinterest lineup of awkward, aggressive and borderline ugly clothes come to mind. This works out conveniently for me, as it means I often have no problem perusing a website's sale section and finding my dream piece reduced to $25, thanks to other shoppers' lack of interest.

Imagine my surprise when people agreed with me on the Faye, particularly in its smaller, suede-and-smooth leather incarnation. The Faye -- in all her crisp, strange, equestrian glory -- has turned out to be a handbag hit, selling out in stores and online.

My thoughts below.

Measurements

Dimensions: 9 ¼"W x 6"H x 3 ¼"D
Drop: 20" - 22 ½" 
(adjustable belt-style strap)

Construction

Closure: top flap with magnetic "lock"
Interior: 3 compartments lined in suede with back pocket
Materials: body is leather & suede

Daily Use

I primarily use the Faye as a casual day bag, though its sleek construction and hardware would also carry it into the evening. I believe it's intended to be worn as a crossbody, but since the strap is adjustable, you can also make it short enough that it can be carried on one side. 

Re: space, I often find myself struggling to fill the entire bag, as its composed of 3 expandable "accordioned" compartments. But caution: the Faye's compartments are slim and take the shape of what's in them, much like the Céline trio, so it's not sunglasses or chunky keys-friendly. Its slimness means it's not a bag to carry if you are used to having all your essentials nearby, or if you plan on being away from home a long time. I think of it as an errand bag or short outing bag -- room for wallet, phone, receipts, as well as a few small makeup items, but not much else.

It is also jingly -- very jingly. That chain-and-ring contraption, while striking, can quickly get old or inconvenient if you’re not into the sound of a hundred stacked bracelets rattling each time you so much as breathe out. For this reason it may not be a great choice for quiet places or listening events (think churches, movie theaters, performances, and so on). The giant metal ring has another downside, too: it seems you're meant to open the flap by holding down the leather body (since the magnet closure is strong) and grasping and pulling up on the ring. The whole motion strikes me as a little awkward.

In the world of bags with magnetic closures, the Faye is a winner. The magnet that holds the flap down is secure enough that someone just brushing past would not easily be able to open it. This seems like a minor point, but I've owned magnet-closure bags and wallets that prompt a mini heart attack every few hours when I notice they've popped open of their own accord.

Care & Maintenance

The Faye is unexpectedly easy to care for, given that much of it is composed of suede. The suede flap does show dust easily, but a spritz of Kiwi suede cleaner will clear that up, as well as more stubborn stains. No need to be overly gentle with a suede brush; the Faye's external suede is resilient and any apparent scratches smooth out immediately. On the inside, the black Faye's light suede lining is not particularly prone to darkening or staining: I've carried makeup compacts and eye pencils in it without worry.

I do not baby this bag at all, nor do I have to. Not only is its suede fairly unproblematic to maintain, the smooth leather portion of the bag is thick and not prone to scratches. Over time, minor wrinkling will present itself, but I’m able to remedy this with Collonil leather cream. Even liquids don't leave much of a mark on the Faye! In the first month I had it, I was caught in a sudden downpour and wasn't able to wipe it down immediately. Once it dried, there was no visible evidence that it had just been soaked. (Regardless, a suede protectant spray is recommended  -- just in case.)

Quality & Value

In a nutshell? Solid, substantial, well-constructed. None of the materials used are light or flimsy, with the leather and hardware about as heavy as they can be without making the bag hard to carry. There are no raw/unfinished edges and no loose or stretched stitches. The attention to detail is striking, particularly the defined and sealed interior pocket edges, secure hardware anchors (see esp. the rectangular piece to the right that fixes the chain to the body), and metal rivets that reinforce pockets and prevent tearing.

Considering that I've seen less well-executed pieces go for $2300+, the Faye's sub-$1500 price makes it a bang-for-your-buck anomaly among luxury bags, IMO. That said, given its small size and low value retention, there are other contenders worth considering.

Pros & Cons

(-) small, not structured/supported, little resale value, cannot hold irregular or chunky items, suede collects dust, not ideal for bad weather, looks "niche" (which can translate as "odd"), suede is more prone to fading than leather, will require purchase of suede protectant and cleaner, could be "trendy"

(+) Versatile, fits continental wallet, compartmentalized, easy to care for, under $1500, adjustable strap, closes securely, not easily scratched, understated, looks "niche", good construction, not heavy, ageless in that it looks at home both on the shoulder of a 20-something and a 40-something

Vibe

Sleek, equestrian-inspired, minimal, modern, ageless, elegant, crisp, unexpected, confident

Alternatives 

The striking Rag and Bone "Enfield" mini ($495), the understated Burberry "Peyton Chain" ($850), the minimal Elizabeth and James "Cynnie" mini bag ($395), and the Rebecca Minkoff mini "MAC" bag ($195), the last of which even has a metal clasp/ring detail at the front flap, too. 

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